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 Previous: Florida Youngsters Quiz Astronaut Via Ham Radio | ![Next (later) Story](/images/sty-up.gif "Amateur Community Responds in a Big Way to "Big Project" Campaign"){kind=small} Next: Amateur Community Responds in a Big Way to "Big Project" Campaign |
By Anthony A. Luscre, K8ZT
Contributing Editor
April 25, 2002
In this installment, we take our QRP equipment along on our travels.
 The carrying case can be customized to hold this Elecraft K2 by removing the precut foam blocks in bottom half of the case. [Photo by author] |
Last time, we surveyed available QRP equipment. This time, we get our equipment "to go." Unlike that "to go" meal you order at your favorite fast food restaurant, we will not use any styrofoam or paper bags. But just like that fast food, we will pack it so we can take it with us. Like anything we want to move, how we package it depends on where we want it to go and how it will be transported.
We will explore packing your QRP gear for long trips, camping trips, pedestrian mobile operations, emergency communication/Field Day and the "portable shack." For those who like to homebrew, we will also try out our first construction project.
Trains, Planes and Automobiles
Whether you're going QRP or QRO, for long trips, you need to pack your gear securely to withstand even the "gorilla" baggage handlers. The combination of a sturdy case and foam lining can usually protect your equipment. Fortunately there are many commercial options available in a variety of price ranges.
 Here's an example of an inexpensive carrying case that employs both foam and dividers. |
For those with larger budgets and/or trips into extreme environments, Pelican Products waterproof cases can be a great way to go. Prices range from $30 to $300 depending on size. For those with smaller budgets and with no need for waterproofing, a variety of "aluminum" cases with foam inserts can be purchased from your local hardware or building supplier (usually in the tool box aisle) or through a number of mail order suppliers. Prices range from $10 to $50 depending on size and construction.
For a soft-sided padded case, take a look at cases designed for laptops. They are available in leather, vinyl, canvas and nylon. Quality, protection and price can vary greatly. One idea for an even lower cost case is to search garage sales or second hand shops for hard sided luggage, then add your own foam.
Back to Nature
 A Yaesu FT-817 with bubble wrap and tight-sealing food keeper ready to go camping. |
For camping trips, we need to pack it "to go," weatherproof and lightweight and with a portable power source. For a good source of inexpensive waterproof cases, visit the plastic food container section of your favorite store. Look for a case with the proper dimensions and a lid that seals securely. To further protect your gear, purchase the case with enough room to wrap a small amount of bubble wrap around your rig before placing it in the plastic case. Remove your batteries or insert a small piece of flat plastic between the battery terminals and the radio's power connector as an insulator. This step can prevent accidentally turning on the radio while it is packed and avoid the disappointment of finding dead batteries when you are ready to operate. Pedestrian Mobile
 A complete portable shack with Ten-Tec Argonaut, power supply, antenna tuner, multimode controller and filter unit. |
For "pedestrian mobile" operations, we need to-go packing that will allow the radio to be operated while being transported. A number of protective carrying pouches are available commercially. Manufacturers include Pouch, Inc. and Mountain Ops Communications. Other good sources for pedestrian mobile cases include camera cases and hiking gear. If you or a friend likes to sew, you can create your own custom carrier. For pedestrian mobile antenna ideas, visit the W3FF Home Page and the HFpack site of The HF Portable Group.
Ready Kit
For emergency communications packing, we need to be able to transport all of the necessary equipment and accessories at a moment's notice. Information on preparing a to-go "ready kit" can be found in ARRL's ARES Field Resources Manual or this list from the Pasco County RACES.
Ham Shack To Go
 Marking position of interior grooves to hold shelves |
Many hams, especially new hams or retirees, have very little permanent space to devote to a ham shack. For that temporary shack and multi-purpose use area, we need packing that allows equipment to be moved into place and to become instantly operational. This type of portable ham shack also lends itself well to club stations or school stations where security is necessary during non-operational times. One very effective way to create this portable shack is a wooden box with horizontal shelves inside and no front or back. A sturdy handle, or pair of handles, assists in moving your shack. A nice touch is a handle(s) that will fold down when not in use. Removable front and rear doors can be added if the shack will be transported longer distances and/or encounter rougher transporting environments.
Lockable front and rear doors can also add a measure of security to prevent unauthorized operations, even if the shack is in an exposed area. Although it brings one great pride to have a son or daughter who is a ham, an unlicensed child operator can be quite embarrassing and illegal.
A Construction Project To Go--Skip the Solder, Grab the Sander
 Details of interior grove cuts. |
Building your own portable ham shack is an easy project, even for beginners. There is no "tune up," and it is guaranteed to work the first time. Here are the step-by-step instructions. Feel free to customize them for your needs. Please remember, safety first, whenever using power tools.
1) Gather the equipment you would like to package. Stack and arrange equipment in desired configuration then measure, allowing extra space for dividing shelves.
2) Select necessary wood. For shallower cases you can use 1-inch pine or hardwood in widths of 6, 8, 10 or 12 inches (remember this is nominal size; actual size of wood is smaller). For deeper cases use 3/4 or 1-inch plywood cut to your desired depth. For the internal shelves you can use 1/4-inch tempered hardboard or plywood.
3) Measure and mark your wood. You will need two lengths of pine or hardwood for the top and bottom equal to the width of your equipment plus one inch. The 1-inch space will allow you to insert foam strips on both sides of the equipment. This compressed foam strip will then help to hold equipment from sliding out of the case. Cut measured wood, making sure to make a square cut (if you have access to a radial arm saw, this can assure a proper cut).
4) Prepare strips of shelving material to the same depth as top and bottom pieces; rip using table or radial saw or cut carefully by using a circular or jig saw (clamping a straight edge on the wood to guide the saw is one trick to get a better cut).
5) Cut prepared shelf strips to length by using length of bottom piece and adding 1/2 inch. Remember to get a nice square cut.
 Metal L brackets add strengh and keeps corners square. Rubber stair treads cover the top and bottom edges of the unit. |
6) To measure side pieces, place bottom piece under stack of equipment with a piece of shelving material between each layer of equipment. Place top piece on equipment. Mark one side piece by placing it vertical next to stack. Make a mark at top of edge of each piece of shelving material. Mark top of side piece and add 1 inch to allow for finishing.
7) Using marks of shelf positions on side piece, add thickness of shelving material above each mark.
8) Using first side piece as a guide, transfer marks to second side piece.
9) Above each shelf mark cut a 1/4-inch deep groove across the side piece. This can be done with a router, radial arm saw, or circular saw (clamping a straight edge on wood to guide the circular saw will result in neater grove).
10) Complete all grooves, then assemble, temporarily, to test fit everything. Mark top of side piece and cut to finished length.
11) Sand all pieces. If staining, apply stain now before assembly.
12) On a flat surface, align the four pieces, lying on their back edge, into a rectangle. Drill pilot holes for screws on side pieces.
13) Use wood glue and screws to assemble. Use a square to assure proper alignment of all corners. On the back of the case, metal "L" brackets can be added to strengthen and maintain square corners.
14) Test fit shelves by sliding into grooves; fit should be snug. Sand edges of shelves, if necessary, to fit. Remove shelves and set aside.
 Small station with FT-817. The "window" on the right side facilitates the microphone connection. |
15) Apply desired finish/sealant and allow to dry. Two coats with a fine sanding in between may be necessary to get desired finish. Also apply finish/sealant to the yet-unassembled shelves and let dry.
16) Use a small amount of wood glue and then slide shelves into final position.
17) Attach handle(s) to case. Attach rubber feet or rubber molding strips to bottom to prevent scratching surfaces you place case on.
18) When glue and finish are thoroughly dry, place equipment into their final locations. Then insert foam between equipment and side panels as necessary to hold in place. For foam with adhesive on one side, visit your hardware store's weatherproofing aisle. If equipment heights on a shelf vary, you can also use foam above and/or below pieces of equipment.
19)
You can then customize as desired.
Possibilities include attaching a surge protector power strip to back of case
to manage multiple plugs, removable "lids" for front and back, create an extra
shelf with front and back covers to store accessories (key, microphone, cables,
etc.) when not in use. An extra "enclosed" shelf can also be used to store gel
cell batteries for truly portable operation. For equipment with microphone,
headphone or other connectors on the side you will need to cut a small access
"window" in the side piece.
| Feedback from Readers
Wow, lots of great e-mail from readers this month! A few readers of my "QRP Equipment" article mentioned that I had omitted many kits from the UK. For more information on three UK companies with fine kit products visit Kanga Kits, Hands Kits and Howes Kits. The Kanga and Hands kits are also available on this side of the pond from Kanga US run by Bill Kelsey, N8ET. Many astute readers passed along a correction. The QRP+ from Index Labs was never available as a kit--only factory-built. An important omission was the NorCal 40A, which is sold by Wilderness Radio. This easy-to-build 40-meter rig is based on a project of the NorCal QRP Club and has inspired an electrical engineering lab course and textbook, The Electronics of Radio, by David B. Rutledge, KN6EK, at Cal Tech. Others asked why the Yaesu FT-301 and Kenwood TS-130V were not included. Many readers may not realize, that for a number of years, Yaesu, Kenwood and ICOM made QRP "sister" versions of many of the QRO radios that they imported into US. These were made for the Japanese low-power licensee market and were not normally imported into US. I did consider including these units, but due to the relatively large number of these "QRP versions" of Japanese rigs and their scarcity in the US, I ultimately decided against it. Please share your questions and comments and suggestions for future columns via e-mail. |
Editor's
note:
Anthony Luscre, K8ZT, an ARRL member, lives in Stow, Ohio. He has worked in the
field of medical microbiology for 18 years and is now a Technology and Computer
Coordinator for a 6000-student school district. Luscre is an avid QRP operator
having earned DXCC, WAS and WAC using no more that 5 W output. Readers are
invited to contact the author via e-mail, k8zt@arrl.net or visit his Web site.
| Previous: Florida Youngsters Quiz Astronaut Via Ham Radio | Next: Amateur Community Responds in a Big Way to "Big Project" Campaign |
